Friday, November 21, 2014

THE DUCHESS OF ALBA - MAY SHE REST IN PEACE




Maria del Rosario Cayetana Alfonsa Victoria Eugenia Francisca Fitz-James Stuart y de Silva.




The Duchess of Alba
1926-2014
Once A Great Beauty






Duchess of Alba Archive

The Duchess of Alba: The Girl Can't Help It! 9/4/2012

JANE BIRKIN - A THING OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER ... AND EVER ... AND ...


Hector Jorge Choker







50 Cent - 21 Questions 










Quiana nylon Lady Arrow shirt and Joanna Rubens for El Greco fawn suede knickers tucked into a wide grommet belt by Elegant. Watch - Jacques Ferre design for Simonelle. Celia Sebiri suede knapsack.








Taupe poplin cape over matching shorts by Luba for Elite. White-on-white striped cotton shirt from Custom Shop. Studded belt with hanging pocket bag by Elegant.







White voile shirt by Kay Busgang for Alice Stuart. Red satin corselet by Helene MacGregor for the Chelsea Cobbler.








Full and pointed deep white cuffs on a white striped cotton tunic-shirt by Sibley-Coffee worn over Bonnie Doon lace tights.







Navy Jersey button-front shorts jumpsuit belted down over a wide-open Khaki wool skirt by Cacharel. The belt in leather and braided-hemp by Garay.







Custom Shop burgundy-and-white menswear striped shirt with giant tie strapped at the waist with a D'Naz leather belt.  








The navy knit undershirt by Gregory worn over little print britches and white lace legs. The belt by Elegance. Watches by Seiko, Universal Geneve.



The Great American Shirt Life
Vogue March 1971
Photography: Patrick Lichfield



...eyes on the seventies at devodotcom


Thursday, November 20, 2014

DOVIMA IN COUTURE 1958



Dovima
Balenciaga

"In a romantic and deeply Spanish vein, Balenciaga's Fuschsia
balldress is blown back from a decollete bodice to rustling folds of Shantung satin that graze the floor. A scarf of matching Marescot lace veils the shoulders"








Balenciaga

"Balenciaga is chary of color, using ot brilliantly or not at all. The vivid proof: his deep yellow satin dress, drawn high in front at the waist and again at the hem."

Notice the dark hose worn with these formals. Bold.







Givenchy

Givenchy's short evening dress in pink silk moire, "knotted like a bandeau over the bosom and rounded out in soft folds beneath a rising waistline." Velevt hat (probably Halston)from Bergdorf Goodman.







Mainbocher

"Mainbocher's mastery of the perfect poised line, heavy cherise satin, so intricate in concept yet so effortless in effect."

"The pointed decolletage counters a wide satin flange dropped to the waist in back above a slender skirt of unpressed folds. Over the dress Mainbocher throws a loose satin jacket with a great collar, a gathered yoke."






Mainbocher



Mainbocher's short white dinner dress - the bare armed bodice simply clasped by a bowknot above soft tucks. The full skirt springs forward in deep unpressed pleats. A printed mauve and white silk ottoman coat lined in quilted white satin goes with the dress to dinner.






Givenchy


"Givenchy's dinner coat in an intense depth of magenta satin. An extremely short silhouette extended at the shoulder and lifted high at the waist. The upright collar curves to the neck."



Dovima in Couture
Harper's Bazaar November 1958
Photography: Richard Avedon



... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Monday, November 17, 2014

FUR REAL










Kendrick Lamar - Promise that you will sing about me ...




The Thing: 
Guanaco Hair Seal

Above: Russet guanaco "a guanaco is a Peruvian camel, scales the Andes instead of the dunes, hooded jacket with side slits for ultimate mobility." By Georges Kaplan.








The Thing: 
Mink Nutria

Natural domestic nutria in pitch brown in a slender three-quarter length reefer.








Fredrica Furs

Kitov-processed Alaska Fur Seal - knitted dress by Caledonia. Kislav gloves.







Christian Dior-New York


All-weather country coat with a removable lining of deep brown nutria. Water-repellent cotton poplin outer-shell. 








The Thing: 
River Otter Mink In Depth


From Fantasia, Beige-dyed Brazilian river otter with a pale mink collar. 










Simply elegant fur-nishing

"Mink worked with the fluency of silk. The skirt arcs to a raised waist tied with a great sash." Designed by Emeric Partos for Bergdorf Goodman. Hat (probably Halston)from Bergdorf Goodman. 








Anne St. Marie's regal countenance is best examined under fur. Here, a pale, three-quarter length theatre coat in a "pure goblet shape." 

Emba "Tourlamine" mink - Ritter Brothers





Its The Real Thing ...



Fur in Variety is the Thing! 1958

Nothing could be  more the thing than China Machado in a "jacket of tawny Siamese tiger falling wide at the waist, closing at the back." By Scassi at Henri Bendel.


Front closure or back closure, the cut is current and offers endless possibilities.












"Clarity is the province of Persian lamb," (must be a Vreelandism.)


Carmen Dell-Orefice stands demure in Schiaparelli's mocha Persian lamb. 

Persian lamb -  it hangs heavy and definitely has a different handle than being wrapped in mink or sable. Still,  it maintains its own brand of  sophistication. Quieter, more casual and unannounced. 







"Thirty-five controlled inches dropping in a crisp right triangle."

Black-dyed Hammer Brand processed Southwest African Persian lamb by Zimmerman-Scher.






The Ultimate




Empress Chinchilla - Christie Brothers

The ultimate wrap, a "demi-swath of chinchilla - the remarkable beauty of the fur is underlined by a design which juxtaposes vertical and horizontal bands."

Like a diamond jeweller contemplating the final cut. Well done!









A Christine Keeler coat that has never gone out of style.

Empress chinchilla -  Frishman and Gintel


must have one


FURS
Harper's Bazaar November 1958
Photography:

Gleb Derujinsky 
Dan Wynn


... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Sunday, November 16, 2014

HOT IN HONG KONG



Orange linen coat printed in full-blown pink roses, worn over a bright pink Irish linen chemise dress. By Sportswhirl. Straw coolie hat by Emme.


Locale: The World
Harper's Bazaar January 1958
Photography: Gleb Derujinsky
Model: Ruth Newman


...eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Friday, November 14, 2014

BABY IT'S COLD OUTSIDE





Evelyn Tripp wears a flurry of smoke-blue fox that leads a double life; a "hood" late day, and after, a stole surrounding pretty shoulders. By Reynard in Saga Norwegian Blue Fox. Her beauty is enhanced by a new kind of makeup - one that blooms with exactly the same clear blush in every light. Frances Denney's new "Constant Color," here in "Rose Beige" Fluid makeup, powder, green eyeshadow and "Highlight" lipstick.



Most-Wanted Presents
Harper's Bazaar December 1955
Photography: Lillian Bassman


... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Thursday, November 13, 2014

CHEERS! 1955


The Colombo Cocktail ... Light rum and pineapple
Junior Sophisticate shirtdress in matching hue







Everything Old Is New Again

The framed fur bag in coonskin by Roger Van S.
Photography: Ernst Beadle










The Coonskin Carryall by  Madame Thea
The New Ford "Thunderbird"





The Slim Line


Dovima 

Cotton jersey two-piece by Sportswhirl
Wizard's Hat by Bernard Workman





Sunny Harnett

Golden mesh sweater dress by Nelly de Grab
Bead ropes at the waist and wrist by Coro



  
Foxy Cashmere Cardigan
David Goodstein


































                                            Lean Cardigan Suit
                  Spectator Limited





Fully Fashioned




There is really nothing more feminine than a woman in fashion that is nipped-in at the waist and full-skirted. Graceful, pretty, all female and surely due for a big comeback. This coat, in a blend of silk, wool and mohair, is by Lilli Ann.






Dovima wears a dotted shirtwaist by Jerry Gilden





Fontenella of Rome





Chantilly lace and silk organdie mosaic bands over pink silk organdie, fluted out in pleats from a silk tied waist. By Harvey Berin.






Black Chantilly lace over white silk organdie. A slightly lowered waistline and  organdie jacket, sleeved, just shoulder-deep. By Mary Black.






White frozen over ice pink


Dress for an early spring bride. Over the palest taffeta, white organdie, embroidered in snow flowers, trellised with scallops and lace ruching; surging out into panniered width below a little waist. By Priscilla of Boston.





Key West, Florida





Anna Magnani with Director daniel Mann on the set of The Rose Tatoo
Photograph: Sanford H. Roth



Fulton Street Markets


Joseph's - The Fulton Market, East River New York



Albert's - Washington Market
Photographs: Paul Radkai





The Well-Spent Dollar
Harper's Bazaar February 1955
Photography:
Richard Avedon
Ernst Beadle
Sanford H. Roth
Paul Radkai

... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom




















Nm