Friday, October 24, 2014


"In 1932, Madame Gres, who was then known as Alix, came to the attention of the fashionable world. She has never since lost that attention. Thirty-two years later, she continues at the top of French couture, a unique talent - her timeless, draped silk jersey dresses, prized possessions of their owners. One of the few true dressmakers left (charming witness of her profession, the worn little pincushion that swings from her waist as she works), she cuts material directly without pattern or drawing, using in one dress from twenty to seventy yards of fabric. Paradoxically, Madame Gres is a woman famed, but little known. Shy, tiny, with the elegant bones of a mandarin, she is both a designer and a sculptor. Her hands hold a length of cloth or sculptor's tools with the same touch that '"knows,"' that feels, without grasping, the essence of what is held. Everything about her speaks an awareness of what lies beneath, the irreducible, the bones of life, excess and detail pared away - her Paris apartment, strong-to-stark, filled but not cluttered with marvelous antique Chinese rugs and Gothic statuary; her taste for the muted blessings of gray and beige, and, of course, her designs, miracles of draping that could have graced a Venus in ancient Greece. Her own manner of dressing is always simple - a sweater and skirt for work, a gray squirrel pullover for a city stroll; for evening, the perfection of a white silk velvet tunic dress swathed in a toss of white fox and, night or day, the tight-drawn turban. The gift so apparent in all she designs is and only could be the result of a disciplined, unsparing effort toward perfection which she, as nearly as it is possible, achieves."
Diane Arbus

Madame Gres wears her camel coloured coat with mandarin collar and an asymmetrical closing

madame gres:
a unique talent
Harper's Bazaar February 1964
Photography: Diane Arbus

...eyes on Arbus at devodotcom

devodotcom posts on Diane Arbus

8/23/14 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
12/29/13 Happy New Year From Our house To Your House!
4/29/13 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
4/12/13 Harper’s Bazaar Year 101
4/19/12 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
3/22/12 The Simplicity of Thought
3/21/12 Have A Great Day!
1/25/12 The Vertical Journey
12/31/11 Happy New Year
11/24/11 The Young Heiresses
8/14/11 Bill Blass Designs For Little Ones
7/12/11 The Full Circle:Prince Robert de Rohan Courtenay
5/17/11 As You Desire Me
4/25/11 The Full Circle: Max Maxwell Landar
2/14/11 The Couple
1/30/11 She's As Mae West As Ever: Mae West
10/16/10 The Full Circle: William Mack
9/25/10 Mrs. T. Charlton Henry
9/05/10 Fashion Independents On Marriage
8/20/10 The Real Miss Cora Pratt
8/20/10 Miss Cora Pratt
7/29/10 The Full Circle: Jack Dracula
7/27/10 Thank Heaven For Little Girls
7/26/10 Petal Pink For Little Parties

5/24/10 Tokyo Rose

Thursday, October 23, 2014


Van Rouge necklace  made of gilt links with the primitive glow of copper-tinged gold worn over a black Jax turtleneck sweater.

Ivory knitted sleeveless, high-necked culotte dress shaped with a five inch wide elastic and brown patent belt toggled in silver.

White knitted wool tunic dress with a cross-over V neckline and high waist by Kimberly.

In a Fort Davis pasture, Veruschka wears a one-piece dress by Domani Knits. The brown dirndl skirt, white turtleneck top, sashed and hemmed in bands of white.

White silk jersey with ruffled collar, cuffs and hemline by John Moore. The background: the Franklin Mountains, cotton fields and a salt cedar.

Murray Neimann for Hannah Troy designs crepe barness for the small of the back and upwards in sparkle-rimmed circles.

Tracked on the lonely Alpine Basin of Texas, a brown and white cotton Dalmation-spotted culotte dress and jacket by Originala.

White diamond-knit tunic shape dress with a mock turtleneck shown twice on Verushka at Monahans in the Permian Basin, once a sea - now rich with oil.

Verushka in the grama grass of Fort Davis wearing a scallop trimmed and high waisted dress by Banff. On her shoulder, a two-day-old Spanish kid.

A perfect cotton shirt dress by David Crystal with deep cuffs, side slits, and tucked bib-front.

Veruschka in front of the pool at The Greenhouse Spa, run by Neiman Marcus - now an addiction treatment centre. 

Adele Simpson white linen pointed over a bare waist and A-lined, briefly.

The bared midriff by day. Ganymede in white jersey - tiny halter top, tiny swinging skirt, bare midriff crossed with string ties. By Nan Herzlinger.

Two asymmetric slants of white matte jersey held at the shoulder and hipbone with golden crescents. By Sarff-Zumpano.

Curls of blond and white Dynel, tied and glued on one by one, by Veruschka.

Texas Surprised
Vogue April 1968
Photography: Franco Rubartelli
Model: Veruschka von Lehndorff

... eye on the sixties at devodotcom

Wednesday, October 22, 2014


Martin Munkacsi

Princess Jean-Louis de Faucigny-Lucinge
The former Baba d'Erlanger demonstrates the new-look in nail grooming, natural laquer with blood-red tips.

Loretta Young wrapped in a Henri Bendel  cape of snow-white fox

French film star Annabella wears a bleached skunk jacket by Muriel King.

Vionnet's black crepe dinner dress with pink satin bowed yoke

Danielle Darrieux dressed by Saks Fifth Avenue's Salon Moderne

Miss Cobina Wright in Jay Thorpe's smoke-grey marquisette trimmed in shades of deep red to pink moire.
Louise Dahl-Wolfe


White silk chiffon with crystal beads from Jane Engel
Louise Dahl-Wolfe

The Duchess of Windsor wears Mainbocher's Prince of Wales Plaid lame
Francois Kollar

Lily Dache's turban of white woven glass thread. Bright red crepe evening dress brocaded in gold by Jonai.
George Platt Lynes

The Turban that Becomes a Scarf by Reboux
Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Harper's Bazaar December 1937
Martin Munkacsi
Francois Kollar
George Platt Lynes
Louise Dahl-Wolfe

... eyes on the thirties at devodotcom

Tuesday, October 21, 2014


Welcome to Fall Couture 1977

Front Row ...Catherine Deneuve - Zizi Jeanmaire

Joseph Losey covers the collections

Christian Dior

Saint Laurent

Madame Gres

Jean-Louis Scherrer


Pierre Cardin

Louis Feraud

Andres Courreges


Jean Patou


Pierre Cardin

Jean Patou

Hanae Mori

Hanae Mori

Lanvin Boutique

Nina Ricci Boutique

Carruti - Ted Lapidus 

Ted Lapidus Haute Boutique

Givenchy Boutique


Rome Romantic


Vogue Paris
Les Collections Par Losey
September 1977
Eve Arnold
David Bailey
Guy Bourdin
Arthur Elgort

... eyes on the seventies at devodotcom